It Christmas eve here in Pushkar (Rajasthan), the sun is shining (but it barely hits 20 degrees in the day, and 6 degrees at night). Dodgy trance music (it’s the same tune everywhere) blares from stalls. Hindu devotees in yellow, saffron and orange shuffle past, staring dumbstruck at a passing western girl’s low cut top and tight clothes. A brown cow stands in the middle of the street, lifts its tail and leaves a green puddle.

Santa’s reindeer beware, the Cowfia (cow mafia) have India covered, so you’d better think twice before muscling into this town with your red noses and flying hooves.

I’m recovering from a dodgy stomach and a bad cough/cold. And there is not a thing to remind a traveller that somewhere thousands of miles west people are frantically buying gifts, wrapping presents, and stuffing turkeys. To be honest I’m not that bothered! Not in a surly way, but xmas is starting to be a bit of a drag with the crowds, stress, and people forgetting its true meaning (the end of the winter solstice).

Anyway, this is just a quick post to wish you all a ‘very merry Christmas’. I hope the true spirit takes you, that Santa blesses you with gifts and wonder, and that you stuff yourself silly with turkey (or tofu if you’re that way inclined). Enjoy your holidays, and think well of the year 2006 as it fades, and positively of 2007 as it arrives.

SS.//